Hong Kong Island, TOP 10 Sights in the Northwest

From the corporate vanities of Central district’s glass towers, through the vodka bars and galleries of SoHo, and spilling down flagstone lanes to the raucous shophouses and old docksides of Western, the Island’s  northwest potently concentrates all of Hong Kong’s surreal contradictions.

 

In the concrete gullies between futuristic banks and statement office blocks  you’ll find traditional street markets, temples and herbalists, all carrying on like some Hollywood dream of old Chinatown. These are some of the most  mercantile streets in human history. A shot of snake bile wine, or a fierce  macchiato? In this part of the city, you can have it all.

 

Hong Kong Park

 

1. Hong Kong Park

When you’re tired of Central’s relentless bustle, Hong Kong Park’s open spaces and mature  trees make an excellent escape, particularly its strikingly elegant (and free) walkthrough aviary. The flowing streams and lush  plant life of this improbable mini rainforest are a peaceful and shaded home to scores of exotic bird species. The park also has  lakes, a large conservatory, a viewing tower and the free Museum of Teaware, which is located inside Flagstaff House.

 

Exchange Square and Two IFC Tower

 

2. Exchange Square and Two IFC Tower

As the name suggests, Exchange Square houses Hong Kong’s red carpeted financial engine room,  although the stock exchange is not open to visitors. However, the peaceful square outside it, dominated by a large fountain, is  a great place to eat or drink outside. Near the fountain are sculptures by Henry Moore and Dame Elizabeth Frink. The  square’s newest building, Two IFC Tower, is a striking addition to the island’s already impressive skyline.

 

Former Government House

 

3. Former Government House

This grand old building served as the British governor’s residence from 1855 until 1997, when the  last governor, Chris Patten, handed Hong Kong back to China. Patten’s successor, Tung Cheehwa, cited bad feng shui  created by the needle like Bank of China building as one reason not to move in, opting to remain in his house on the Peak. Back in the 1940s, the occupying Japanese added the Shinto-style towers to the Georgian structure, which at one  time enjoyed harbour views. The building is used for official functions, only opening occasionally to the public contact HKTB for details.

 

The Escalator

 

4. The Escalator

A wonderful feature of Hong Kong is its 792m (2,598-ft) long string of escalators, which links  all the roads between Queen’s Road and Conduit Street. It’s the best way for pedestrians to get around the steep districts of Central, the Mid Levels and SoHo. The Escalator runs uphill until midnight, except during the morning rush hour, when it runs downhill.

 

 

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5. SoHo

In the last few years SoHo (so-called for being the area south of Hollywood Road) has been transformed from a sleepy 
district of traditional Chinese shops into a thriving area for hip bars, cafés and restaurants. Elgin, Shelley and Staunton streets are excellent places to find a drink or bite to eat.

 

Sheung Wan and Western

 

6. Sheung Wan and Western

The older, more traditional Chinese areas of town, just west of Central’s sleek corporate head quarters and the smart shops, are worth exploring by foot. The reward is a fascinating array of shops, mostly wholesalers, selling dried seafood (the pervading smell here), ginseng, edible swallows’ nests, snakes, arcane herbal ingredients and paper offerings for the dead. Try the streets around Bonham Strand.

 

Lan Kwai Fong

 

7. Lan Kwai Fong

Not much to look at during the day, Lan Kwai Fong (or Orchid Square) only really starts to buzz at night when office workers, including plenty of city suits, come here to unwind at its many bars, clubs and restaurants. The street is packed with revellers on Fridays. The partying spills across to tiny Wing Wah Lane just across D’Aguilar Street with bars and good value Thai, Malay and Indian restaurants. 

 

The Waterfront

 

8. The Waterfront

Turn right out of the Central Star Ferry for some (admittedly meagre and poorly exploited) open waterside space and benches with good views across to Kowloon. Behind are the 1,700 porthole style windows of Jardine House, for many years Asia’s tallest building. To the east is the giant upturned gin bottle shape of the Prince of Wales HQ building, now one of the Chinese army’s main Hong Kong barracks. 

 

Man Mo Temple

 

9. Man Mo Temple

The gloomy red and gold interior of the Man Mo Temple, dating back to the 1840s, is always thick with sandlewood  smoke from the giant incense spirals hanging overhead, which take a couple of weeks to burn through. The temple is dedicated to two deities, Man (the god of literature) and Mo (the god of war). Some of the scenes from  the film version of Richard Mason’s The World of Suzy Wong were filmed here.

 

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10. Hollywood Road

This mecca for Chinese antiques and curios may no longer offer the bargains it once did but Hollywood Road’s eastern end is still jammed with shops selling ancient ceramics, mammoth ivory carvings and delicate snuff bottles. The stalls and shops on Upper Lascar Row are a good hunting ground for antiques, trinkets, old coins, kitsch and curios. Haggling is definitely acceptable here.

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